Serbia wasn't necessarily on my bucket list for travel experiences
and Belgrade hardly tops the list of city weekender destinations, but my weeklong
visit made me wish I'd stayed for longer. The initial purpose of the trip was
for geographical research and fieldwork (an odd choice you might say) intended
to understand the city and immerse our self in Serbian culture and urban
society. I'm not sure what my initial expectations of Serbian life were, but I
found Serbian people to be welcoming and friendly and the city in general to
radiate community spirit generating a sense of homeliness and comfort. Belgrade
was therefore such as revelation and shattered my initial pre-dispositions of
the post-war Balkan capital.
Firstly there's the food; cheap, meaty
and...cheap. This place isn't for veggies. As best said by our waiter on the
first night 'Serbian kitchen is meat'. Speaking of which, Sta Ja Tu Je, near
the tramway offers an amazing game goulash of rabbit, venison and wild boar
with half a pint of Lav (local Serbian) beer for under a tenner! Serbian food
itself is a strange mix of Austrian influenced and Turkish food; expect sauerkraut
style cabbage mixed with kebabs and Turkish coffee. If you're getting the meat
sweats (as we did halfway through the week) visit Supermarket for edgy Serbian
sushi or Radost for communal veggie and vegan delights. Bear in mind Radost
looks like it's someone's apartment room- there will be a sticker of an
animated broccoli on the door as a marker and that's about it!
For all you history buffs, Belgrade is
rich in sites of historical interest. Visit Tito's mausoleum to see about 500
differently engraved relay batons (?). Then there's the bombed out government
building in the city centre, still standing as a corpse of its formal self,
left as a reminder to the NATO bombings of 99'. Architecture is key in
Belgrade, contrast New and Old Belgrade for a fine mix of well-preserved pre
and post modernist architecture, demonstrating some of the best socialist
planning of the modern era. Lastly take a day trip to Novi Sad; probably one of
the prettiest European-esque towns in Serbia; the main square bears a strong resemblance
to Vienna and the neo-classical architecture evokes a strong Parisian feel.
Initially you may be put off the sheer
scale of graffiti in Belgrade; most buildings have a scribble somewhere or
other. In fact; much of this graffiti is paid for; used to represent and
celebrate specific communities. Visit New Belgrade for beautiful painted
memorials and references to 1999. Otherwise explore the city yourself; there
are some great gems hidden away in residential areas and back streets and
slightly less-offensive messages than you'd see in the UK; such as 'Go Vegan!'
scrawled away elsewhere.
Also don't get this place confused with Siberia;
you won't need a fur coat in spring! Bring sandals, shades and sunscreen; I
spent many an afternoon lazing in the sun in the park (plenty of which offer
free wifi). Over summer; the riverside comes to life and floating restaurants,
bars and clubs pop up all along the Sava. The locals all have beach-houses on
Belgrade island and Kalmegdan (Belgrade fortress and surrounding park) holds
huge concerts in the outdoor heat.
Nightlife, like the food is also very
cheap. Cheap cocktails, wine and beer are offered at almost every pub and bar
along the cobbled Bohemian district. Live music is also highly popular in
Belgrade where traditional pubs play Serbian songs, all of which have lively, drunken
atmospheres. If you're into clubbing; house and techno seem to be the main
Eurotrash genre of the region. The most popular clubs of which are all situated
in abandoned nuclear bunkers or dis-used supermarkets.
It was possibly one of the surrealist
places I'd ever visited; where else can you find a man walking a rabbit down
the main high street or a pensioner washing an umbrella in 26 degree heat? Not
to mention Disney wine marketed to children and Beer sold in McDonalds. Saying all of that; I want to go back.